How Do You Prevent Swirls when Finishing a Twill Weave?

Alan Spielvogel |

Q: When my finisher presses slacks that are constructed with a twill weave (especially gabardine), a discoloration that resembles a swirl occurs. What causes this, and how can it be prevented?
A: This discoloration is sometimes referred to as “moiré.” Using vacuum while the head is in the down or locked position can cause this rippled look to occur. To avoid this problem, activate the vacuum as the head of the press is released.
With many automatic utility presses and leggers, the vacuum activates while the head is in the down or locked position. When finishing twill weaves on these presses, deactivate the automatic feature.
To remove the moiré discoloration from a twill weave, apply buck (bottom) steam to the fabric while brushing it with a velvet brush, then vacuum the fabric. A slight mist of water while applying steam can be helpful.Have a processing problem? Click here to Ask The Expert!

About the author

Alan Spielvogel

National Cleaners Association (NCA)

Technical Director

Alan Spielvogel is technical director of the National Cleaners Association (NCA).


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